You don't necessarily need anything special depending on what you want to run the audio into. My system is not portable at all but I use a couple of keyboard amps at home and I just turn the volume on the amps down and run a 1/8" to 1/4" TS cable straight from one of my mixer modules to each amp and that works perfectly fine.
I'm confused, I have a free account, but I just checked and I can move 2 HP and 4 HP modules around, no problem. What browser are you using?
Google Chrome will translate the page to English for me. Also Signal Sounds in the UK has it in stock.
I like to send LFOs into tube amps, resonant filters, reverbs, etc., here's one example:
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/forum/posts/index/11054
Frequency shifters can also be helpful in getting huge drums. I don't typically start with an actual drum sample myself when I'm trying to come up with drum sounds. You didn't say what you're doing now but given that you have that Quad Drum Voice there, I assume that's what you're starting with. So with what you have there I would try the Drum Voice into some combination of the wavefolder, the C4RBN filter, and/or Veils. Not sure how quickly C4RBN self-oscillates, but try setting the resonance just short of self-oscillation and play with controls and see what sounds you can get. You just have to experiment.
Recently I've been using Nano Ona for bass, I think it was somebody here turned me on to it when they mentioned they had used it for a bass sound I liked, it's got a couple of more complex waveforms that are great for mixing with the usual sine, triangle, saw, and square/pulse, plus there are two different sub-octave outputs that can be used for this purpose as well. The price is nice too.
Just FYI, MIDI Amsterdam used to have a habit of listing items online as "in stock" even if they weren't. Don't know if they still do that, but I remember ordering one hard to find item that they had listed on their website as "in stock", I didn't receive a shipping notice after several days so I sent them an email to check on it. Two more days passed with no response so I canceled my order and bought it somewhere else. It was pretty clear at that point that they didn't actually have it in stock. I've heard of other people having similar experiences.
Yeah, I have (using the audio in), see https://www.modulargrid.net/e/forum/posts/index/11054
I'm not denying your experience, that wasn't my intention at all. Nor was it my intention to tear you down. I'm not in any way suggesting that you're making anything up. My intention was simply to get you to think about potential issues with your studio and eurorack setup that you might have overlooked. Because a 40% module failure rate is NOT a typical experience. That's quite a lot to just ascribe to random chance. I provided my experience as a reference point, that's all. But thanks for calling me a vampire lol.
If you're going to post things like "Horrible module made by an awful company" on a public message board and then follow that up by saying how 40% of the modules in your system have failed, I don't know why you would expect that other people wouldn't post their relevant experiences with the same company for perspective. If you just wanted to go back and forth with DivKid then you should have DM'd him. The person being precious here is you.
"Companies tell me there is a 1% failure rate within the eurorack industry, however, the failure rate in my studio is almost 40%. No lie....."
If the failure rate in my studio was 40% or anything even remotely close to that, I would look into the possibility that there was an issue with my studio, just saying.....I have a fairly big system, and have turned over a fair number of modules while building it, but off the top of my head I can only recall having to make a video for a manufacturer once. I think the failure rate I've experienced might even be < 1%. This is across two different homes, as I've had to move once after my system was largely built. So if you're having to make videos all the time, that should ring some alarm bells.
Regarding Instruo in particular, I have a few of their modules, so far they've all worked fine. I remember them being slow to put out manuals for some of their stuff in their earlier days, but that's really the only negative thing I can think of to say.
Haven't used that effect but the Pro manual says you need to set the Dry/Wet mix to 100% wet or else you will hear the clock, it should be the same for the XL.
Yeah I mean I guess it depends on what modules you have, but IMO powering 185 HP with one uZeus isn't very realistic. I'm not an expert on power and I'm sure others would have recommended a more robust power solution from the beginning, but given that you already have the uZeus, I think a 4MS Row Power 35 would work fine for the remainder of the rack. And yes they can be daisy chained to run off the same power brick, but not to my knowledge with the uZeus. You could go with a second uZeus instead I guess and save money, but my thinking is it would be better to give yourself some elbow room in terms of the -12V rail so that you don't have to worry about running out of power.
Not having everything running off the same power supply can be useful sometimes, for example, if you have a module that's sensitive to picking up interference from other modules, then having the ability to separate them and run them off of different supplies can be handy. I have a pretty large system which includes several uZeus modules, 4MS Pods, and a Row Power 45 in addition to some Dopefer cases, and it's worked out ok for me.
Very nice! I also love the bass! Your setup is actually vaguely similar to mine in the general concept, instead of a Rhodes and an Osmose I have a Casio Privia Px-870 and a Nord Wave which I use in conjunction with the modular. Anyway you got yourself another YT subscriber. I really like your "Silver Towers" jam as well.
Yes. Even with the jumper removed though, it looks like you are probably pushing the -12V rail close to it's limits. So definitely remove the jumper, but pay close attention to the lights on the UZeus when it powers on. If they blink when you power on then that means you're probably pushing it too hard. All the lights should turn on immediately. Also feel the faceplate of the UZeus after you've had it on for awhile. If it feels like you're going to burn your finger then again, you're probably pushing it too hard.
You need to get in the habit of looking at the power consumption numbers listed in Modular Grid to give you an idea of how much power your rack is using. Yeah it's just a rough estimate, but in this instance it's 478 mA on the -12V rail, that tells you right away that you definitely need to remove the jumper. Given all the space you have left in the rack, you're definitely going to need more power for that rail when you add more modules. A 4MS Row Power module might be a better idea for the remainder of the rack (it provides more power on the -12V rail).
According to the manual the output gate level for the SQ-64 can be set to 5v or 10v, so if it's currently at 5v I would give 10v a try. Also if you haven't already confirmed that your SD808 can be triggered by some other source I would do that just to make sure it's working.
Sony MDR-7506 headphones are my primary headphones when recording and checking mixes, but I also use a cheap pair of Creative HQ-1450 headphones as well, the idea being that they're closer to what the average person is likely to be listening on.
Yeah maybe that's it, the panel on mine is aluminum I think.
I wonder if that issue with the buttons might be particular to just your module or maybe just to the newer ones? Because I've had one since 2019, it's not even mounted in a rack, there's only a module on one side of it, and I've never noticed any bending of the pcb or sinking of any of the buttons. Admittedly I don't use mine much though.
You can try to trade for whatever you want, it's no skin off my back, you may be waiting awhile though. Even if someone has one they want to get rid of, they would also have to want something you want to get rid of in exchange. And unlike a sale, there's no protection in a trade. So in answer to your question, yeah, I personally would never try to trade for something I could easily buy instead.
That module is widely available, so if you really want one, why not just sell a module or two to pay for it? I don't understand why you need to do a trade specifically.
I started with some semi-modular (4 Neutrons) to complement my digital piano and Nord Wave, got hooked and then gradually branched into modular as I wanted to try new things, learning as I went. Part of that was regularly trying out and selling modules when they weren't quite what I was looking for - I think I've sold at least 70 modules. I see people constantly asking what they need for their rack and I don't really relate to that very well because to me you should just start with enough to make some noise and then when you want to do or try something but can't, that'll inform what you want/need real quick. My "rack" so to speak (it's really more of a sprawling mess haha) is pretty large now, but as you said, the point is not to use it all at once - it's like having a bunch of guitars/pedals, it just gives you more options when trying to find whatever sound you're looking for in a given instance. Mine grew to its current size over the course of 4 or 5 years, I couldn't possibly have planned it all out in advance. But I did have a strong vision for my music, I think that's what a lot of people are missing and maybe what makes the journey more confusing for a lot of people.
The Joranalogue Receive and Transmit are good choices IMO. Personally I prefer to mic my keyboard amp and run that into the audio interface on my PC when I'm recording, but I use the Receive module to input sounds from my non-modular keyboards and it works very well. It can handle XLR mics too.
It's been done already elsewhere: https://learningmodular.com/glossary/
I have not had that happen before (I have several Distings). You don't mention what kind of SD card you have, but if it's not the specific type that the manual recommends then I would get one - they're not expensive. If you still can't make any headway then I would contact OS at Expert Sleepers, he will be able to help you better than anyone on here.
Word Jim. FYI the Intellijel uses less current and is also shallower.
As far as filters go, I assume you want some that don't take up a lot of space or use a lot of current. Some that I have and like that meet those requirements would be:
1) Bastl Cinnamon
2) Karltron Steiner Parker
3) Mutable Ripples V2
4) TipTop Forbidden Planet
5) Nano Font
6) Doepfer Wasp
Yeah I have a Befaco Spring Reverb which I like, it's hooked up to a large tank which I have mounted underneath the table where a lot of my eurorack gear sits. But like the A-199 the RCA connectors are only in back, so I had to leave 2 HP open to run the cables in/out. So keep that in mind. But anyway, I would consider getting the Befaco instead of the A-199, it gives you CV control over both inputs as well as the mix in the same amount of space, and also uses less current from the +12V rail, which in your case is probably a good thing. And I can tell you from experience that the sliders on the Befaco are very "playable". I've had a few spring reverbs and it is the only one I've kept.
So what case/power are you planning on using now? That's going to inform the answers to your other questions. Your rack looks about 50 HP wide, even if you're able to stuff the reverb tank that comes with the A-199 in there, you may find you have problems with noise/hum. I used to have a Metasonix Spring Reverb inside of a Doepfer LC3 84 HP case with a medium tank inside the case, but it was a very tight fit, and I made sure to use quality shielded RCA cables, not sure what comes with the A-199.
The short answer is yes, of course you can. Whether you'll like what you end up with better than what you had is another question. There are numerous reverb and kick modules available, I personally am a big fan of the Z-DSP Valhalla room reverb, but I also use the ZVerb and FX Aid modules sometimes for reverb as well. Never used an Eventide Space though. I should mention that the FX Aid modules have some Roland bass drum simulations in them as well as many other effects. But I've never used a dedicated kick drum module, so I can't be of any help there really. If you search Modular Grid for "kick drum" you'll find quite a few though.
I've never worked with a pre-existing kick drum sample, but I've made some huge kick or kick-ish drum sounds from scratch just starting with an LFO. Filters, tube amps, reverbs, frequency shifters, all of these can be very useful, you just have to experiment.
Yeah I meant there were already built DIY versions available.....
Agree with Jim, the A-135-2 is not capable of amplification, whereas the Intellijel Quad VCA is, but personally I would go with Mutable Veils (2020 version) if your budget can handle it and you can get a hold of one - I see Signal Sounds still has one available as I type this, and there are also DIY versions out there.
There's no need to use 8 HP for a triple passive attenuator module. You could replace that with a similar module or even one with more functionality from another manufacturer that takes up less space and you'll have room for an LFO module.
You're welcome! I should also mention that certain wavefolders can be used as both a clean VCA and a VCA with overdrive/wavefolding, at least I know this is true of the Bastl Timber. So that's something else to consider.
There are quite a few VCAs that can amplify but are basically clean until the amplified signal hits a ceiling of 10V or thereabouts, so I don't think the overdrive in the Tallin is a natural function of it being an amplifier, rather it's something they specifically built into the module. I see people make the claim that "most VCAs just attenuate" sometimes, but that hasn't been my experience in Eurorack. I think almost any VCA that isn't strictly linear is going to be capable of amplification, and even some of the linear ones can amplify to a degree if the control voltage is high enough.
As far as other VCAs that do some type of overdrive or distortion, my first thought is tube VCAs like the Metasonix RK2 for example. Abyss Devices Saevitus and Synthetic Sound Labs Tube VCA/Timbral Gate are a couple others that come to mind. But if you search MG for "Tube VCA" you'll find quite a few. Aside from Tube VCAs I know Expert Sleepers makes a JFET-based VCA, "Persephone" that can be used to overdrive the input signal as well.
Disting Mk4 algo F-6 (Shift Register Random Quantized CVs) is pretty similar, and of course it can do a ton of other things as well.
If you want to post a link to your rack, just click on your user name, right click on the link to whichever rack you want to show, and then select "copy link address".
I know I'm not typical but if I come up with something that I know I'm going to use on a track I'll definitely leave it patched up for months at a time. Yes, I'm a slow worker haha. If end up needing to use some of the modules involved then maybe I'll write the patch down before disassembling it. But I have a pretty large system so that's not always necessary. Anyway I think this kind of thing is highly individual and just depends on your goals, your method of working, the size of your system, etc.
There's something I really do not understand about this module.
Why are the effects individually stored on proprietary memory cards? Couldn't they be stored on a USB drive or an SD card and loaded to internal memory as needed?
-- fabulis
If they stored them on USB drives or SD cards, they could be easily copied.
I'll second the idea that having a Pro really complements the smaller versions. Because you can audition effects on the Pro, and then just upload your favorites to the XL or the 4 HP version.
There should be a link below each price that lets you toggle back and forth between euros and dollars. I'm guessing you accidentally clicked on it?
That should work, the only thing to double check is whether the 5.5/2.5mm DC jack connector is the right size for the case. Even if it's not though you should be able to find a cheap adapter.
I have several ways of implementing polyphony. One is I just feed my polyphonic digital piano into the modular via an input module and use the modular to modify the already polyphonic audio. I have the Bastl 1983 as well, but I also like the AvonSynth Midi to CV module, which is affordable and easy to use and gives your 4 channels of gate and CV + dedicated mod wheel and aftertouch outputs (I use a Nord Wave keyboard which has aftertouch). The Bastl will give you aftertouch but only in mono mode I believe. But of course it has a number of other features the AvonSynth doesn't. Another way I implement polyphony is with the Expert Sleepers Disting EX + midi breakout, currently I'm using the sample player in the EX and then feeding the output into other parts of my modular.
Wow, thanks for that vid VOW3LLtheVAMPIRE. Wasn't really planning to buy any more Behringer stuff, but now I definitely won't be.
I think it's a combination of quality issues and distaste with some of their business practices. I don't really have a dog in the fight (aside from just generally not liking large corporations), as I'm not really up on their history and far from an expert on all the issues involved. I started my modular journey with 4 neutrons which I still own and use to some degree, they are great bang for the buck and a great way to get started in modular IMO. But I've never tried any of their eurorack modules, and haven't read particularly great things about them. I imagine some of them are probably good value, while some of them probably suck haha.
A note of caution, the uZeus is designed to be mounted on metal rails, and while it is possible to mount them on 3d printed plastic, it's not ideal, and if you ask TipTop I'm pretty sure they will recommend against it. However, I've got a couple mounted on 3d printed plastic (albeit not in an actual case) and what I've done is put these heat sinks on them to dissipate any excess heat:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVTHZ6W/
https://smile.amazon.com/25Mx20mmx0-25mm-Performance-Thermally-conduction-insulation/dp/B075FRPXQ5/
Actually since the heat sinks and tape are cheap, I've gone ahead and put one on all my uZeus modules, regardless of where they're mounted. It's super easy.
I'm visual too, so I can relate. But also for simpler matters. I have the Zadar, which outputs 0-10V (attenuatable). Suppose I get that down to 0-3V. Now if I invert that, I get -3-0V. Say I want it to be 0-3V. With many DC sources, it's hard to say if I'm really getting 3V. I was using that to AND the inverse of envelope of a sound with gates, in other words to stop gates from triggering while the sound is still playing. By ear, it's probably good enough. Visually, I feel it's more accurate. Now the question is - do I want to spend €500 on a Mordax for that?
-- Arrandan
Well I would just say that 1) there are cheaper scope options out there than the Mordax, which has 4 channels and does more than just act as an oscilloscope. Plum Audio, FPB, and Intellijel have cheaper scopes, and there may be others I'm missing as well. And 2) If your experience is like mine you're likely to run into other situations where you'll be glad you had a scope. I actually have more than one and I don't regret it at all.
Yeah for me a scope like the the O'Tool+ or Mordax Data is essential. Yes you should use your ears, but viewing things in the scope can save you a lot of headaches as far as diagnosing problems when things aren't behaving like you expect. I'm a visual person anyway so I like to be able to see things in the scope regardless.
I don't post on ModWiggler any more but the answer to your question is the Flame Mirror:
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/flame-unipolarinverter
Posted here because it was annoying me that no one could come up with this lol.
