Yeah, maybe I rushed the question, but you guys got the point. I was actually looking at the Erica Dual VCF evaluating a rather "simpler" filter but capable of being used also as a true dual filter processing two audio signal independently.
As always you guys gave me constructive comments and new ideas and ascpects to think about! :)
-- Pescasphere

The Morgasmatron gets my vote. I own one just for the sake of disclosure. It's nice to have two identical* multimode filters. On channel one you can add overdrive and channel two you can phase reverse. You definitely can use it on a stereo source and modulate each side slightly differently. It also has a convenient switch to operate on a single signal in series or parallel.

Each channel is also capable of self-oscillating and has multiple filter options. So it's a good all-around workhorse of a filter module.


The 2HP stuff isn't stuffed in pretty densely. Also, much of it is mostly set-n-forget kind of modules. You might want to move Pluck over one module so that it has a bit more clearance.

Also the Batumi has a 3HP expander called the Poti. It's not too expensive and gives front panel access to portions of the Batumi that can only be accessed via jumpers on the back. If there's 3HP to be found in the rack it might be worth it. Also, why you should have spare rackspace in all of your builds.


I don't see a noise source on the M32. Maybe I'm overlooking it. But Intellijel makes a 1U sample/hold/slew/clock/noise module. It would be a great addition.

When you're ready to grow: think about effects like reverbs, delays, overdrive/distortion. Also a small clockable sequencer like Mimitec Digitalis would go well for some creative fun. Sequencers are great sources for modulation apart from generating notes.

Take it slow and experiment recklessly. This is a good entry point but you'll probably push the M32 out of the case within 6 months to a year.


Check your link again. Go back and fix it as well as your first link. If you view your own rack, you can go up to the URL and copy that like so. The URL should end in numbers. This one ends in 959778
ModularGrid Rack

It makes it a whole lot easier to check out your rack and look up the modules.


Intellijel has a 1U tile for headphones. But you'll have to split your stereo signal from your mix to the headphones and your 1U audio input. I think a better choice would be getting a 3U unit that has independent headphone and line outputs with separate control over each and keep the Intellijel in and out for line level gear you want to bring into your system like external reverbs or traditional synths.


Well... maybe Plaits is the way to go... but let me point you in another -possible- direction. Plaits is a digital module with various different waveforms to choose from. It's a good choice if you want some "bread and butter" sounds as a source.

A "through-zero" oscillator may give you some interesting waveforms and modulation to add to your arsenal. I bought an Intellijel Rubicon 2. It also has lots of interesting modulation sources. You can use it as a standard VCO. But things can get fairly interesting when you throw some modulation at it and use it in non-traditional ways. It also runs in LFO-mode so you can create some very interesting LFOs as well.

Noise Engineering offers some interesting digital sound sources as well. But you'll have to pick and choose carefully as some of them might be a little too aggressive sounding if you're looking to pair them with another sound source.

No matter what sound source you go with, I'd definitely add another mixer module as you may want to mix your oscillators before you get to your filter and then possibly after the filter with effects.


Looks like you did your homework in VCV Rack pretty well!
-- Lugia

This makes me uber happy. There's been a rash of posts from people who haven't done their homework. It's nice to go over the fine points of a build rather than telling someone to go back to the drawing board.

More posts like the original post please! :)


There are some great comments above so I'm not going to pile on. But here are a couple of this in no sense of priority.

The Intellijel 104HP 7U case is also available in black. (I'm sensing a theme)
Intellijel makes some nifty stuff in the 1U that includes a vector scope, a noise + sample/hold/slew module, and even some USB tiles that are great for mounting a USB reading lamp or two. You'll want that since your color scheme is going to be pretty dark to begin with.

For additional modulation you may want to check out Noise Engineerings "Clep Diaz" and/or possibily their Mimetic Digitalis.
Ricky Tinez uses a lot of Noise Engineering products and features both in this video.

I think you can also get replacement faces for the Maths in black.


I'll concur with the idea of buying a bigger case or be prepared to buy a second case if you're looking to expand.

The Dixie II is a good choice for your basic analog VCO. You've also included a digital one. That's fine as well. The Joranalogue is a good filter to get going with. Lots of outs and features to keep you busy creatively.

The Hermod can handle some LFO duties as well as some ADSR if I remember correctly. Dedicated LFOs and ADSRs (besides the stages) are nice to have. But there's some leeway on starter builds.

How do you intend on using the Chord module? Also, the Erbe Verb and the Nebula, I would purchase in a second round of buying. If you're going to keep a case of this size then you may want some wiggle room if you need to drop in a couple of more utilities or just-one-more module.

I don't see anything technically wrong with the rack. I'm glad you included some attenuverters. I'd think about the Intelljel 7U case if its in budget. They make a 1U Quadratt that could go in the 1U row. There's also an Intellijel compatible 1U Ornaments and Crimes that's pretty tasty... as well as buffered mults and a few other items.

Overall it seems that you put some thought into this rack and your time with VCV Rack shows.


A Eurorack module (or any other format module) is generally just one piece of system that's necessary to make a Eurorack rig work. It's like buying a propeller, a seat, and a rudder and expecting to have a flyable airplane.

By the looks of it, you're buying "cool" modules but you don't understand the architecture that allows them to work together to get a creative result.

Understanding how a DAW works or being able to tweak the controls of a VST synth won't get you very far. That's a bit like walking into someone else's already patched rack and twiddling with the knobs. You can be an awesome race car driver but not understand how to build or rebuild the engine that makes it go.

Spend some time with software like VCV Rack and start building and patching. Until you're proficient with that aspect as well as identifying and using the utility modules necessary in just about every rack, you'll be pretty hard pressed to get the results you're hoping for.


You're putting together a rack without knowing a lick about what makes modular tick.

You're setting yourself up for an expensive failure. Read some of the other threads in this sub-forum and you'll see the same issue over and over again. Take a look at all the recommendations and follow them. We really need to pin those answers to the top of this sub-forum.


Both.

A VCA will work well as long as it has a manual bias knob. Using a VCA also means you can modulate the volume later if you choose. An ever so subtle amount of modulation can really bring some movement to a patch.

A simple attenuator can be very inexpensive and passive (requires no power). Koma makes patch cables with passive attenuators built-in. This may be a good solution if you don't want to commit rack-space to a passive attenuator.

Next up... units that offer attenuation and attenuverting. Sometimes you may want to attenuate a signal and even invert the phase of it. The Intellijel Quadratt is a nice set of four attenuverters that can offer some flexible control, mixing, and even static CV output (if nothing is plugged into the input).

Befaco makes a dual attenuverter that also features an offset control. A good example would be taking an LFO that goes from -2V to 2V and shifting it to 0V to 4V... then inverting and attenuating it to -2V to 0V.

These kind of boring modules can really make all the difference in your patches so I'd research your options and needs.


If you have an Intellijel case with a 1U row, they make a USB outlet that retails for around $15US.

USB gooseneck reading lights should work well.


y advice to Behringer is to come more with their real own stuff and not yet another copy of yet another retro product.

So how's your opinion about Behringer's Eurorack plans? I guess not too good either? ;-)

Anyway, I guess time will teach us if Behringer's approach (from a commercial point of view) is a good one, somehow I am afraid it is...

Kind regards,

Garfield.
-- GarfieldModular

They are definitely swinging in that direction. They just hired at least one of Korg's Japanese engineers with the thought of working on new products (synths and samplers) at Music Tribe Japan. One of the original developers of the MS-20 according to the article. Funny enough they just came out with the K-2 aka the Borg MS-20.
http://www.synthtopia.com/content/2019/08/31/behringer-hires-korg-synth-guru-to-lead-move-into-original-flagship-designs/


I'll drop the B word.

The Behringer Neutron is a good starter synth with lots of flexibility.

If you can find one of the first 2000 units, the K2 looks pretty tasty as an MS-20 clone. Lots of patching possibilities in Eurorack.

If you're in Europe you may find it a lot easier to find. Then there's always the Model D mini-moog clone. THREE oscillators but limited on Eurorack patching.

The great thing with all of these choices is that they are far below your budget maximum.


Do you have commentary on the Odyssey?

I really like the Neutron and Model D. They surpass my "good enough" expectations and for $300... well... you can't beat the price.

The RD-8 is being sold for $350! To me that's insanely good for an entire 808.


Don't let Lugia hear this, but the Behringer stuff isn't bad for simply for the oscillator sections.

The Boog aka Model D has a stack of three oscillators + noise, 1v octave CV, with a Eurorack level oscillator mix output (pre-filter) and doesn't require racking... for $300. Plus, it's a full MiniMoog clone all on its own. I don't think you're going to find that kind of functionality for $300 if you source everything individually. Granted the oscillators aren't capable of hard-sync nor have individual outputs. But if you go with the 0-Coast and you want some analog to go with it, it's an option.

The Neutron can be thought as a utility box that includes sample & hold, slew generator, a couple of extra ADSRs, attenuators, two VCAs, filter, etc. Plus two oscillators that can hard-sync.

I wouldn't call either ideal for replacing dedicated, individual modules. But they are worthy of consideration if you're trying to get more out of your set-up with limited funds. I've used both as stand-alone synths connected to my DAW for a few tracks... because sometimes you just want something quick without a ton of patching.


Looks like you have a plan. I bought a Pittsburgh Micro Sequencer. I hate it, personally. I find that accessing features to be really unintuitive. If your budget allows, try a micro Ornaments & Crime. They are 8HP... 2HP less than the Micro. The menuing system is much easier to navigate than the frustrating button combinations on the Micro. A Micro will cost you around $160-$200. The O_C is about $250-$275. If you go with a larger format O_C you can get them for about $200.

An alternative to the Happy Nerding Mutes is the Joranalogue Switch 4. It's $20 more but includes more features. Each of the four switches come with a three-way toggle (momentary, off, and on). Plus there are two additional outputs connected to two rotary switches with an on/off switch as well. It's a little bigger than the Happy Nerding Mutes but the additional features are worth it in my opinion.

You may also have an issue finding Happy Nerding stuff in North America.

Additionally, the 2HP bell... have you thought about a micro Braids module instead? It'll cover bell sounds as well as a host of other sounds. It's probably double the cost and roughly 10HP in width. But you'll get a lot more out of the module.

Another possibility to add more oscillators is a Behringer Model D and leave it in its original case. It has a Eurorack jacks built into it and includes a 1V/Octave input plus a jack out of the mixer section. That gives you a three oscillator stack plus noise for $300... plus a Mini-Moog clone. Lugia despises Behringer. But I find the cost benefit and the sound to be well worth it. $0.02.


What Lugia said. If you follow the Rack forum, you'll see a lot of peoples' "first" system being just a collection of "that looks cool" modules without any thought to what they'll be able to produce with their collection. That's not bashing anyone's first attempt or amount of knowledge, just stating some of the common traps people fall into.

Attenuators, attenuverters, traditional ADSRs, even LFOs seem to be overlooked in a lot of first builds... they aren't cool or flashy... but they are fundamental elements in almost any kind of build.

Another factor overlooked would be ease-of-use. There are some really powerful modules out there... but the learning curve... remembering all of the secret double, long hold, double button presses to access features will really bum you out. Mutable Instruments makes some quality stuff. But unless you're devoted to committing each of them to your day-to-day thoughts, you'll always find yourself referencing the manual. The Expert Sleepers Disting is one of those modules that packs a lot of features but the interface is horrible to get around in. Again, I'm not bashing anyone's choices... but they may be a factor in what modules you'll want to select.

Ergonomics. 2HP makes some space-saving useful stuff. But dialing in settings is hard as hell with those little pots. A lot of modular is finding that 1mm of "sweet spot" of knob turning. Good luck on a 2HP module crowded next to another 2HP module. DEPTH can also be an issue with space-saving modules (or any other module) as some racks can be compromised on depth. Always know the depth(s) of your rack. You'll also want to consider ergonomics with things like VCOs. A great example is choosing the pitch. One solution is to have a course tune knob that runs the entire frequency range and a fine-tune knob. Another strategy is to select octaves (using layman terms here) and have a fine tune knob for the frequencies in between. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Compare the Tip Top Z3000 vs the Intellijel Dixie II+ regarding the two methods.


Thread: Drum filter

The Intellijel Morgasmatron works well as a dual filter. One channel has an overdrive and the other has a phase flip. Other than that they are identical in function. It would work well for stereo processing of your drum mix yet still be quite useful for traditional applications including self oscillation (useful for creating kick drums, etc.).


How do you intend on mixing audio signals and attenuating/mixing CV?
Output?
Do you plan on having a clock source?
I would have a couple of traditional ADSRs in the rack even if you're going to keep the Zadar.
Noise sources?
Additional utilities will eventually be on your list.

Plan to have a bigger rack than this. The amount of HP you've left yourself just won't do. Eurorack systems grow.


Your link doesn't work correctly.


TrueGrid really isn't viable at this time... in my opinion.

I would go with VCV Rack. It's free. Just do a Google search for the website URL.


It's really hard to get "a little bit" into modular synthesis. Can you get sounds out of your current set-up... of course. But in this current set-up with digital sound sources, you've spent a lot for what could be done with $100 VST plug-in.


The Noise Tool from Intellijel is perfect for what you want. It includes a sample & hold circuit. It's normaled to the white noise section but you insert your own source and triggers. It also has a built in clock that can be set to random triggers as well. It has plenty of features and is as non-menu divey as you can get. I believe you have space for it in your 1U row. I have one and it's a very useful utility module.


No hard feelings.

The Mother 32 and the 0-Coast are popular. A synth voice sounds right for you. Basically, a complete synth that's stand-alone (own power supply) or a Eurorack synth voice that only needs to be dropped in a case and powered to get a full sound from.

The Intellijel Atlantis, Dreadbox series, etc. are good examples. You can search in modules by type and select "synth voice." Be sure to research... especially using Youtube. There might be something that's more your style than M32 or 0-C. Most synth voices have normalized patching so you don't have to patch to make a sound. Of course things get interesting when you have access to a multitude of patch points.

If you're going one 3U, then yes... still go big. If you can accommodate 4U, the Intellijel 4U series gives you up to 104HP in full sized modules and the 1U of 104HP for any specialty modules that you would like. The cost is approximately $350 for that case.

Use your synth voice for a while and then you can carefully curate additional modules to go with it. The VCV Rack allows you to experiment with many, many different types of modules... so you can figure out what really stimulates your creativity and decide how you'd like to expand your limited space/budget.

I find a lot of DivKid videos very useful in module exploration... even self-patching. In my experience, you can plan your heart out but eventually you have to just buy something and hope for the best. But it's a journey. Don't be afraid to make mistakes.


I suggested the Z-DSP and Bitbox because of their flexibility. Of course you pay a price for that.

An alternative to the Z-DSP that's less expensive is the XAOC Devices TIMISZOARA. It uses the same 24–bit Spin FV1 DSP engine. However the Timiszoara is missing the analog feedback loop and clocking ability. Those features are planned for an expansion module. But once you purchase that, you'll probably wind up paying the same.

There are plenty of alternatives to Bitbox... but again you give up features and functionality.

The 2HP delay is okay. I own one. A better alternative would be the stereo Jelly Wobbler. But the 2HP will get the basic job done. The Bitbox has an alternative firmware (free) that turns it into an FX box.


Well... have you tried all the things you can do with modular that you can't do with desktop (non-Eurorack). Audio-rate modulation sounds like it would be in order.

Are you planning on doing anything with effects? The Disting is useful but it's a jack-of-all-trades. A Z-DSP and a Bitbox would go well in that empty black hole that's begging for your money. I didn't see a dedicated delay module either.

You might also reward yourself with an extra filter that doesn't offer what the MiniBrute has under the hood... waveshaper/waveform folder... oh... and a couple flavors of distortion/overdrive?


I'm sorry but it feels a bit cheap to get the default answer to this, my question was specific about which strategy you would chose to build your first system over time and all I got was "beginners - read this" answers that I know and are almost all taken into account in the setups in my post:

Don't be sorry. You're the one that will be shelling out thousands of dollars... good or bad.

  1. I'm only interested in one row because I don't have the room nor the budget for more but any of those I suggested will already be a real a significant step up from what I currently have

If the racks above are all that you can afford now then I'd wait and save a bit more money.

  1. All of the modules you talk about are in all the systems I included, and there is still room...

Show me the LFOs, traditional ADSR envelopes, attenuverters,etc... especially across all three examples. You have a sliver of HP left in each example... nowhere near enough to expand your systems once you realize the deficits in each.

I looked around a lot for answers to my question and found no answer, otherwise I wouldn't have posted it.

Ever think that your question can't be reasonably answered in a definitive way?

And I know there is not one right answer to this, but I wanted to have opinions from people who've been through that already.

I have been through it and advised several others. I'm not at the Lugia level. But I've spent 30 years around synthesizers, recording studios and DAWs... for a living.

So I'll rewrite the question more concisely:
What's the best strategy when you start out?
*Start small with a few small modules and build a more complex system from there?
*Start big to get more complex and interesting modules from the beginning?
*Start with a pre-build synth voice and add modules to it?

There is no best. There's only best for you. First and foremost what's your budget range? $3000US is a good start. $2000US is okay. And $1000US will get you in the door... but isn't really worth it for what you'll get out of it.

We're all friendly here and the advice is free and valuable. People will go to great lengths to design and redesign set-ups for you. No one is being flippant or dismissive of you. But I wouldn't call anyone's advice "cheap" and expect them or others to want to help you. However, if I felt insulted I just wouldn't reply. Let's make something.


The problem that you're encountering is that there's no cheap way to cover all of your bases. Choosing one or two oscillators means leaving other possibilities on the shelf. Not good or bad... just different possibilities.

There is no one answer. But there is some advice to be refrained over and over.

  1. Buy a case that's bigger than what you think you will need. Most Eurorack set-ups grow over time. Not having the space for that super-awesome 24HP module you're really itching to get means having to buy additional case hardware for the privilege. Future proof your set-up for at least 1 year.

  2. Filters, LFOs, attenuverters, output modules, and other utilities are often overlooked in most fantasy builds. You want at least one multimode filter, at least one LFO, two envelope generators, four VCAs, and an output module to go with a one or two oscillator set-up.

  3. Don't overlook synth-voices and stand-alone synths that are Eurorack compatible. At the bottom of the pile you'll find Behringer's Neutron. But many other synth manufacturers offer their stand-alone synths and synth voices. If you're just getting into modular synth they may be a much more affordable solution that come with the basics. Besides the Neutron, check out Moog's Mother-32, Grandmother, Pittsburgh Modular's synths, as well as many, many other manufacturers.

  4. Play in the virtual world for free. VCV Rack is a FREE modular synth environment. If you're literally learning the ins and outs of the modular synth world, it's a great way to learn more about different module types. It's not a substitute for modular. But a lot of what you will learn will carry over.


I'm entertaining buying an Alright Devices Chronoblob 2. It hits all the high-marks for a dedicated delay unit for me.


I would think a DC coupled digital delay set to 0% feedback could handle the job. Looks like I have an assignment to do when I get home tonight.


Read up on synth levels versus line level. The Eurorack signal is a LOT hotter than line level.

How you handle it is up to you and depends a lot on your gear. There are line level mixers and audio interfaces that can handle synth level without distorting. But there's no guarantee that everything will.

There are quite a few choices when it comes to interfacing.
You can buy a Eurorack interface like the Expert Sleepers ES-8.
You can buy a Eurorack module that converts synth level to line level.
You can buy an external mixer that has enough headroom at the input level to handle Eurorack.
You can attenuate the signal in Eurorack going out to your audio interface.

I use a synth to line level Eurorack module. I find that to be the easiest solution without the worries.

The biggest issue is going the other way around: line level to synth level. That requires boosting the signal and has to be done with active electronics. Using a non-specific piece of Eurorack to boost the signal can add lots of noise.


Still don't like the tiny screen tough.

-- Quantum_Eraser

Well, it is a multi-function module. In your first rack, I would strongly suggest having one.... even if you don't like the tiny screen. :)

Sometimes its worth it to compromise.


Thank you Luigia for the advice.

I'll experimenting with VCV for a working rack and after this I'll post it!
I'll not buy nothing before being sure my rack works.

Thank you!
-- ellelle

Hi Ellelle,
Lugia had some points. Here are a few others.

When you post a link to a rack, use the link to the page rather than a jpg. It's much easier to review your module selection by clicking the "INFO" on the module than trying to find it manually.
Here's a link to your rack. Try clicking on the picture and see what I mean:
ModularGrid Rack

Your rack is definitely lacking oscillators/sound sources. It is possible to use a couple of these modules as sound sources... like the Maths... however it's not intended to be one, so the results may be a little difficult to manage.

Let's keep going on what you have.
There a lots of MID to CV solutions out there. For the space and features, you can do better than the A-192-2. Something to consider is how dependent on your DAW or MIDI source for basic patches? Having an onboard sequencer or even two different types of onboard sequencers is usually a much better way to go. Sequencers are useful for much more than playing back notes.

You have a clock generater (2HP)... what will you be clocking with it? It's rhetorical. But once you learn a bit more, you'll see what I mean. Clocks and clock divisions are important. The 2HP module is very basic.

The A-143-3 is okay. But it lacks some features. You cannot reset or clock your LFOs. That's an important feature for predictable rhythmic results. It's also missing a lot of common waveforms. The Batumi with a Poti expander is a good alternative.

You have two different reverb modules. One is a digital 2HP reverb and the other is just an interface for an external spring reverb.
The A-138p is an expansion unit for another module. If you look at the face, it has 4 inputs... but no outputs. Do not buy this module as it will be useless in this situation.

Quantizers. Where would you like to source pitch information and how important is it that pitches conform to a scale? Again, once you learn more, you might want to consider one.

It's pretty common that people want to get into modular and their first instinct is to load up a rack with stuff that looks cool or is popular... but they tend to lack the understanding of WHY or WHY NOT those things should be in THEIR rack.

Open up VCV rack and place in it.
2 VCOs
1 noise-generator (white noise/pink noise)
1 low-pass filter
1 LFO
2 ADSR envelope generators
4 VCAs
1 four channel mixer
2 Eight-Step sequencers
1 audio interface module (necessary to hear anything).
Now start patching and make a simple monophonic synth. You should be able to create a lot of different basic sounds. Explore every connection and every knob. Once you've got the hang of it, then start trying out different modules like quantizers, effects, etc.


Watched another Video of the Sequins mode (or App or how it is called)

What I still don't get. How do you put in the notes for the next step? Do you really have to select the Notes with
these Numbers? It can't imagine thats the only way.

Does it not trigger the Note from the Next step and you can select the pitch by dialing the knob? (like moving
the slider on the Pittsburgh Sequencer)
-- Quantum_Eraser

Did you view this video? In Eurorack, you're not generally selecting the specific notes you're wanting. An oscillator is generally set at a pitch and the sequencer adjusts that pitch in relation to where the oscillator is set. It's all relative... that's why you hear about people "tuning their oscillators" before they get started. Everything is dependent on where your oscillator is tuned as to what actual note (the frequency of the oscillator) will produce. With a lot of sequencers, you can pick a scale that the sequencer will quantize to. Chromatic, of course, is the easiest. With the O_C sequencer you adjust the value of each step. It denotes the octave and pitch (12 notes) above the base note. If you're coming from a DAW where everything is laid out easy-peasy it can take a little getting used to.


When I think of working with such a tiny Display and 2 knobs it really puts me of.

I know, the O&C is nice but it just doesn't appeal to me.

About the secret-key-press Nightmare. I watched Review Video again and you are right. The only thing that it does to confirm that you changed a mode is the LED light up for a brief moment. The Modes are printed on the Plate. No LED here to show the mode you are in.

I habe to find another solution for sequencing.

In my first Rack Build I had the Varigate4+ in the Setup.
-- Quantum_Eraser

There are two rotary encoders and two buttons. The menuing is very simple. I would definitely find some tutorial videos on O_C before you write it off. I'm definitely in the camp of "if it's too complicated its not going to be in my rack." The O_C is less frustrating to use than the Lifeforms sequencer. As the beginnings of your rack, a module like this will give you tons of options with only a sprinkle of learning-curve.


Get rid of the Lifeforms sequencer. It's crap. I own one and it's a secret-key-press nightmare and the documentation sucks.

Replace it with a micro Ornaments and Crime. You'll save two HP and get all of that functionality and MORE. The O_C is pretty easy to use. Plus it can handle quantizing, can generate envelopes OR gates along with your desired CV. Plus you can SAVE the status of the module between power cycles.

Don't forget the Poti with the Batumi. It's like $60US. But it's worth it.


First thing... don't spend any money. There's no way to casually put together a rig and get something useful unless you get extremely lucky.

Second, go to https://vcvrack.com and download the FREE modular synthesizer software. There are virtual modules that you can pay for. But the vast majority of them are free.

Do you know what a VCO is?
Do you know what a VCA is?
Do you know what a VCF is?
Do you know what an EG is?
Do you know what a SEQUENCER is?

Can you make a simple monophonic synth out of that in VCV rack? Next make the same patch with an LFO modulating the cut-off frequency filter?

Keep experimenting with VCV rack. Watch beginners' tutorials on Youtube regarding Eurorack modular. Get proficient with VCV Rack. You can make ambient patches with VCV Rack as well. Almost all of the modules have equivalents in the real world. So you're not wasting time.

At this point you've still spent ZERO money.

Once you're comfortable, then start considering purchasing a Eurorack system.

Don't be over eager. Learn first.


I don't think the Zadar is very deep as far as menu diving. I trust DivKid reviews. The Zadar is on my list of "want." Check here.

If the Morgasmatron is too big then try a Joranalogue Filter 8. It's much smaller but you only get one filter (but with 8 different flavors of simultaneously available filters).

Your results may vary when attenuating the outputs of Eurorack into your line level input. You can use a VCA, but you might have some concerns about noise. Best always to check.

There are pros and cons with all sequencer setups. Externals are nice if you want to save HP space and you have a lot of hardware synths that you want to address by DIN MIDI. I have no experience with the varigate. My sequencing options are Expert Sleeper FH2 (to connect to DAW), 1010 Music Toolbox, Befaco Muxlicer, and a Pittsburgh Modular micro sequencer (not a fan of because of complicated button pressing to access features).

Your MI Links offers one 1:3 buffered mult in its package. Most buffered mults I have seen offer two 1:3 mults usually with a normal between the inputs so you can stack 1:6 if you'd like. Going with Links verses a simple 2HP 2x 1:3 buffered mult depends on your needs. No right or wrong... just what works for you.

Attenuverters are pretty simple and most will do the job. I like my Intellijel Quadratts for this kind of utility. But they only work in Intellijel 1U racks. I also have a Befaco Dual Attenuverter. It also comes with offset knobs that give you a lot more control of your signal. I tend to use the Befaco when I really want to explore modulation possibilities... especially if I'm going into an input that doesn't have any pots controlling the modulation input.

Stereo. Worth it? Yes... if you have modules that output in stereo. Mono isn't bad... it's just mono. Having a left and right image gives you a lot more depth. It's very worthy of consideration and should be planned for accordingly.


so would you suggest buying the case and maybe 1 or 2 modules and then just seeing what I need?

yeah I was also thinking about drum modules but I always feel like that I could invest the money better. so maybe I'll get the basimilus since it can do way more than just drums, but can also do really competent drums!

anyway thank you both for your suggestions! I love this community! :)
-- VNIKE

One or two modules probably won't get you very far.
The Basimilus is great if you're wanting 808 style kicks. I own it. I just bought a 1010 Music Bitbox. I think it's a great compromise for getting more percussion into your track by using samples OR sampling your own modular gear for percussion and then freeing up that gear for other purposes. It also has two alternate firmwares for wave table synthesis and a multi-fx processor.


I'm an Intellijel case user. The quality is good. I like the Intellijel 1U, especially since more modules are planned and third parties are now starting to see the value. I have 2 7U 104s and 1 4U 104.


Hi Quantum,

Marbles and Morphagene are two completely different modules. I don't really see much overlap there.

Instead of the Contour, have you considered a Zadar? The contour seems like a two stage envelope generator with just attack and decay with some looping.

The Batumi needs a Poti. Look it up and you'll probably want it if you get the Batumi.

As for filters... I like the Morgasmatron due to its versatility. I have one. As far as a general filter module... this...

If you're wanting to sample external signals into the Morphagene then I'd upgrade the Intellijel Outs to the unit with inputs as well.

Deeper question: how do you intend to control your rack? This is where a sequencer or MIDI to CV comes in.

The Maths has two channels dedicated to attenuverting (channels 2 and 3). If you need to control the levels of some CV, then you can do it with this... though a dedicated attenuverter set would be more practical.


I went through and read what you like to hear from your electronic elements.

Research "sample & hold" modules. Bleeps and bloops often sound pretty good with random/semi-random pitches.

Quantizer. If you want generative pitches, forcing them into a scale is a bit more musical. That's what a quantizer does.

Research Euclidean rhythms. There are a few modules with this capability (I love the Temps Utile for this). Combining them, using a logic module, triggering one one set of Eucs with the output of another pattern... you can go on and on. It makes coming up with interesting patterns pretty easy without a lot of composition.

Effects. Reverb, delay, ring modulation... etc. The standard lot. External (non-Eurorack) effects are cost effective. But Eurorack modules with CV inputs offer more creative possibilities.

You have two semi-modular synths in your rack. All of your basics are covered.

As your Eurorack collection grows, you'll probably evict both of them from the rack to make space for more modules.

Bonus points for leaving open rack space for expansion. Feel free to look up my rack "The Machine That Goes Ping" for any of the stuff I use.


Ramirez: now I can see your case... awesome.

Macromicro has some sage advice that I can't disagree with. The Disting and most of ES's modules are a bit frustrating to work with live. The module is pretty powerful. But you'll have to commit your favorite functionality to memory if you're going to readily work with it. But for the price and HP... it offers a lot of value. I still hate the interface, though.

If you're willing to get into Intellijel cases, they offer a 104HP 4U case... one row of regular module space and one of Intellijel 1U. Intellijel makes a four channel module called a Quadratt. It's probably one of the best small mixers/attenuverters to have in your rack. If you're mixing a bunch of LFOs together, you'll want to attenuate and possibly invert the phase of some of your LFOs. The Quadratt will do you for that. Or you can use each channel individually.

Your other option is to use the built in mixing capabilities of your Maths module. Channel 1 and 4 have the slew rate limiters that you'll have to dial all the way down so they don't affect the inputs. Channels 2 and 3 are straight attenuverters. All four outputs will show up at the "sum" output. Just note that if you don't have anything plugged into a channel, it will add voltage to the sum based on where the gain knob is.


Filters. VCAs. Envelopes. Line level inputs and outputs... especially if you're sampling externally.

The Batumi has an expander called the Poti. It gives you front panel access to features only natively available via jumpers on the back. It's worth the few dollars and rack space.

Speaking of rackspace. Yours is entirely full. As a first rack you probably want about 50% of your case empty. As your knowledge grows, you'll want to add more modules.

The 1010 Music Bitbox makes for a great sampler as you can record loops of your sounds. It syncs to clock which is extremely helpful.

I would think of all the non-sexy modules like attenuverters, VCAs, , envelope generators, sample & hold, logic, etc. They are what makes modular special. Get an understanding of what they do and you'll be in good shape.


Keep your Chords unless you really need the money for something else. Chances are you'll expand this rack in the future and the Chords module will be useful again. Don't sell anything unless you're sure you don't like it or won't need it in future.

The link that you just posted isn't valid.


If possible, replace all of the Mutable and Mutable clones with smaller versions. This will open up some rack space and perhaps you can have BOTH options for both concerns.


Check out the Moog Grandmother or the Matriarch. I don't think they are going to sound like the M32 but they do have that Moog sound. Both are semi-modular compatible but don't require any patching to work for your most basic sounds.

If you're looking for polyphony, patch recall and so forth... a traditional all-in-one synth would definitely suit you better. Most stand alone synths operate at line level. Eurorack operates at "synth level" which is a lot hotter... more volts... than line level. So if you want to use Eurorack to process your sound then you'll want some line to synth level converter to go into your Eurorack and probably synth to line level to get into the rest of your set-up. There are a lot of ways to do it, but this is the sure-fire way. It is possible to also sync your stand-alone synth to Eurorack components. Some forward thinking synths have CV and gate outs. Others you'll have to find a MIDI to CV converter to go from MIDI clock to eurorack clock.

There's nothing wrong with finding a pure Eurorack set-up not-for-you. You hit the nail on the head when you wrote that it's not worth it to spend so much time tweaking modules when you want something that is relatively simple most of the time.


Hello and welcome to Eurorack.

Your first step is going to be a semi-modular synth. Cool. They come in two basic flavors... even though they aren't technically the same. The first is a true semi-modular synth. It's stand-alone in its own case with its own power supply. The other notion is a "synth-voice" which is a Eurorack module that's a complete synthesizer. You'll find both out there so take a look around.

If you buy a true semi-modular that can be mounted in a Eurorack case... don't mount it in the case! At least if you're starting out. There's no reason to do so unless you're looking to be mobile often. Use the saved rack space to build your Eurorack module collection.

The Moog Mother is a good choice. There's also the Behringer Neutron, Behringer Crave, Minibrute (no keyboard), and others. I'd consider your budget and your skill level. If you're new to synths or analog then I'd start out small and cheap and THEN start adding RackBrute or another case later. Don't try and buy everything all at once. You'll probably spend a lot on stuff you either won't use or won't care to use. The Moog's big advantage (other than that Moog-sound) is that it has a built in sequencer.

For your rack... consider effects like reverb, delay, ring modulation etc. You may also want modules like logic (AND,OR, etc.), attenuverters, small DC coupled mixers, filters that are unlike what you have in your semi-modular, low pass gates, or even a complex oscillator.